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King’s Cross diners are becoming spoiled for choice but this pioneer of the local scene is more than holding its own by sticking to what it does best: top-notch seasonal food in a clean-lined
canalside setting. Menus with diagrams of cuts of beef and lamb show that meat is at the heart of Rotunda: the restaurant owns a farm in Northumberland – if you’ve time, ask to have a look at the
on-site hanging room. Fore-rib of beef is an ideal slab to share – charred on the outside, ruby-rare within – served with bone marrow, béarnaise and triple-cooked chips; you’ll also find
accomplished starters such as chicken-liver omelette, ballotine of braised lamb shoulder to follow and, if meat isn’t your beat, pan-roasted sea bass. Generous prices extend to lunch and
early-evening sets (perfect for catching a concert in neighbouring King’s Place) while other pluses include a buzzy bar and Sunday roasts.
As bustling and
energetic as the nearby Kings Cross station, Rotunda’s list is an awful lot of fun. It’s easy to get through, well presented, and the tasting notes are, at times, works of genius – informative,
pithy, irreverent and sometimes laugh-out-loud funny. All in all, this list represents a terrific effort.
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