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Square Meal Review of Rosemarino ?

Though you wouldn’t guess it from the modest setting, this confident venue is a bright spark on the Clifton restaurant scene. Occupying what was the former York Café, Rosemarino has been made this spot very much its own – thanks to some smart Italian-influenced dishes served without fuss or bravado. Honest, good-quality ingredients are the key, witness a choice of four antipasti selections beautifully presented on wooden boards: the fish version includes crayfish tails, anchovies, smoked salmon, crevettes and more besides. Mains could run from smoked aubergine and caraway risotto with ricotta and chives to mortadella-stuffed chicken leg with pappardelle, chicken livers, thyme and capers, but save space for dessert – perhaps a mille-feuille of vanilla cream and maraschino cherries or bitter chocolate pannacotta with caramelised blood orange.

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