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Square Meal Review of Provender ?

Max Renzland’s Wanstead café-cum-brasserie couldn’t be more French if it had a string of onions around its neck. Provender fuels Parisian reveries with all-important ingredients (foie gras, escargots, duck magret) and imports the flexibility of a classic brasserie with its goodly assortment of prix-fixe menus, light snacks, plats du jour and a bonus ball in the shape of weekend brunch. There are some cracking old-fashioned dishes on show, including eggs mayonnaise, steak au poivre and rainbow trout with almonds, but it’s not all straight out of Escoffier: smoked-aubergine bayildi with harissa dressing, and saffron risotto and sherry trifle with jasmine tea add a vibrant international dimension. Get into the spirit over a retro Lillet Blanc aperitif, before hitting the classic all-French wine list.

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