The Princess of Shoreditch

British, Gastropub·
££££
·
Bronze Award
·

SquareMeal Review of The Princess of Shoreditch

Bronze Award

The incredibly talented Ruth Hansom’s departure from The Princess of Shoreditch during the summer of 2022 left a gaping rupture in its kitchen team, a hole that Simon Bonwick has since been enlisted to fill. Having learned his trade in Michelin kitchens and earned a star for one of his very own restaurants, The Crown at Burchetts Green, Bonwick’s qualifications are more than worthy of this critically acclaimed pub.  

The dining room is accessed via a spiral staircase that demarcates the heaving pub downstairs from the more refined restaurant above: a cosy, wooden-clad dining room accommodating around 30 diners. This fills up quickly throughout the evening. 

Gutsy British classics and seasonal ingredients are treated with finesse, although the tasting menu has been abandoned for an a la carte offering. Rillette of smoked trout and crayfish takes the form of a neat disk, garnished with spherical pieces of cucumber and radish shavings, a visual nod to Bonwick’s fine dining background. Mains come in just shy of £30 each, although a generous serving of blushing duck breast feels about worthy of that number when it's realised as a hearty, familiar thing served with soft fondant potatoes and a sticky jus. Dessert was the highlight though, a warm, brownie-like chocolate tart, immensely dense with cocoa and served alongside tonka bean ice cream.  

Elsewhere, a slightly overcooked piece of white fish was saved by a well-seasoned ratatouille. While a starter featuring Arabic grains, falafel and avocado didn't quite come together as much as wanted it to, although we appreciate the allocation of at least one vegan dish. 

Ultimately, the Princess of Shoreditch continues its reign as one of the finer gastropubs in London. Sure, the menu feels a little safe, but it also feels nostalgic, welcoming, like a warm hug. And the friendly service has a similar effect, with staff knowledgeably answering our request for recommendations so that we barely had to think. Ideal, if you ask us.  

Good to know

Average Price
££££ - £50 - £79
Cuisines
British, Gastropub
Ambience
Cool, Cosy, Lively, Luxury, Romantic, Traditional
Food Occasions
All day dining, Dinner, Lunch, Sunday roast
Special Features
Vegetarian options
Perfect for
Birthdays, Celebrations, Dates, Romantic, Special occasions
Food Hygiene Rating

About

Just a short amble from Old Street station, The Princess of Shoreditch is an 18th-century pub and restaurant serving a seasonal menu focused on British provenance. Split across two floors, downstairs houses a proper British boozer where you'll often find East London locals mingling after work over a pint and a couple of bar snacks. Ascend the spiral staircase to the main restaurant upstairs, which is distinctly more formal than the pub below while still retaining plenty of traditional charm. It's here where guests can enjoy an ever-changing menu of modern British dishes centred around exceptional produce. 

The dining room marries traditional features with modern elements to create an elegant space that still feels cosy and welcoming. Original elements such as wooden floors, a marble fireplace and large arched windows offer a nod to the building's history, while modern light fixtures and a fresh lick of paint bring it firmly into the modern day. 

The a la carte menu is available throughout the week, while on Sundays it serves a set two or three-course offering. If dining from the former, you might like to start with a couple of nibbles such as tempura courgettes with goats curd, honey and basil, or brie and truffle gourgeres. Examples of starters include a Dorset crab crumpet with pickled radish and avocado, while mains feature sirloin of beef with aubergine, asparagus, beef potatoes and bordelaise sauce. To finish, sweet options include a dark chocolate cremeux with hazelnut and raspberry.

The accompanying wine list focuses on small, family-owned producers wherever possible, in order to support independent businesses (like the Princess). Although centred predominantly around reds and whites, there is a small selection of orange and rose wines for the more adventurous, as well as sparkling and sweet bottles for a pre or post-dinner tipple.


FAQs

Are there vegetarian options at The Princess of Shoreditch?

Yes.

Helpful? 0

Is The Princess of Shoreditch a pub?

Yes, but it is split into an upstairs dining room and downstairs bar.

Helpful? 0

The Princess of Shoreditch is featured in

This venue also offers

The Princess of Shoreditch
Private Group Dining

The Princess of Shoreditch

The Princess of Shoreditch
Christmas Parties

The Princess of Shoreditch

Location

76-78 Paul Street, Shoreditch, London, EC2A 4NE

020 7729 9270 020 7729 9270

Website

Opening Times

Lunch
Mon Closed
Tue 12:00-15:00
Wed 12:00-15:00
Thu 12:00-15:00
Fri 12:00-15:00
Sat 12:00-15:00
Sun Closed
Dinner
Mon Closed
Tue 18:00-21:00
Wed 18:00-21:00
Thu 18:00-21:00
Fri 18:00-21:00
Sat 18:00-21:00
Sun Closed
Bar
Mon Closed
Tue 12:00-22:30
Wed 12:00-22:30
Thu 12:00-22:30
Fri 12:00-22:30
Sat 12:00-22:30
Sun 12:00-21:00
All day
Mon Closed
Tue Closed
Wed Closed
Thu Closed
Fri Closed
Sat Closed
Sun 12:00-20:00

Reviews

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10 Reviews 
Food/Drink
Service
Atmosphere
Value

Jane N

30 October 2023   - Verified Diner
Food & Drink 5
Service 5
Atmosphere 5
Value 5

Hamoudi N

15 October 2022  
Food & Drink 5
Service 4
Atmosphere 5
Value 5
Simon Bonwick is Cooking Up A Storm

Chef Simon Bonwick has settled in here just fine, we decided this after a second visit since he took up the reigns from Ruth Hasbin.

The menu nowadays is super accessible and great fun to read, Bonwick has a genius way with words. You will want to spend your money on eating all of it.

Arabic Grains and Warm Falafel is clearly going to be a unique signature? It is a lovely warm Falafel with juicy onions and Date. The mixed Grains, Spicy and wrapped in tomato deliciously moorish, avocado purée pulling everything thing together that really excited all the nerve endings!

Fantastic fresh Sea Bass cooked right on point, the fish as thick as a slab of???
Ratatouille, superb soft textures accompanying the Bass. Real knowledge of cooking on show.

Rillette starter "tres froid" as at Prè Catelan and the superlative Frédérique Anton was the laters equal, superb as was the in house Sourdough!!!

Beef "cooked for ages" in good wine, is an unctuous affair, super rich and flavorful on all counts, truly sticky and a great display of confident cooking.

bonwick makes a  beautiful Tart along the lines of Bernard Pacauds the long time three star Chef of Paris. This Tart at the Princess was better!!! The just cooked Chocolate Mousse inside the crisp pastry case sheer delight. A Rum Baba is boozy and girly surprisingly for Bonwicks masculine hands. Enjoyable. Coffee is cold and poor, served in concrete rough cups????

lovely front of house guy " Angus " shame about the attitude of Kacie ...

 

Can't recommend the Princess highly enough.

 

Lloyd S

31 August 2021  
Food & Drink 4
Service 4
Atmosphere 4
Value 4
Fabulous Tasting Menu

Having seen Ruth on Great British Menu we were delighted to hear the news that she was to become head chef of the fine dining restaurant upstairs at the Princess of Shoreditch in east london. This would also be a great location for us to be able to visit as it’s on Paul Street and only a ten minute walk from Liverpool Street station. Unfortunately due to the current situation we were unable to get here any sooner than on saturday. But I’m delighted to say it was worth the wait.

 

Now to the day itself which started as I said arriving into London on the train and taking the leisurely walk along paul street until we came to the pub. We entered to receive a nice welcome from Josh before taking a seat at the bar to enjoy some pre lunch drinks and snacks. These included a Gin & Elderflower Fizz , the Queen’s Negroni , Pork Scratching’s with Apple Sauce & Home Smoked Nuts. It was nice chatting to Josh who is the general manager of the group that owns four pubs as he gave us a good insight to how the Princess of Shoreditch is different to the other three.

 

Now it was time to head up the spiral staircase to the dining room on the first floor. You could see straight how they’ve put in a lot of work to create a lovely dining area where all the tables are nicely spaced out. We took our seats before being greeted by restaurant manager Hayley who it was excellent and a delight to talk to throughout our lunch. There are only two menu choices to choose from which are the short five course or long eight course Tasting Menu with the option of an additional Cheese Course and yes we opted for the eight course. We then chose a bottle of the 2017 Mirabeau Rose from the Cotes de Provence that paired perfectly with a majority of the dishes.

 

Our first course was a couple of fabulous little Snacks. A Mackerel , yorkshire parkin & gooseberry along with a Chicken Liver , yoghurt , pistachio & raisin. This was followed by a selection of bread , crackers and two types of butter marmite & tomato.

 

Now we moved to the second course British Corn which was a Charcoal and hazelnut praline with pickled mushrooms & nectarine. An interesting combination that worked perfectly and definitely one of the highlights of the day. We followed this with a delightful refreshing Red Mullet Ceviche with isle of wight tomato , yorkshire fettle , olive & fennel.

 

Our next course was the Cheese and Onion a Berkswell & Truffle Agnolotti with spring onion , kohlrabi & bacon foam which a fabulous rich and creamy combination. This was followed by the main event the Salt Aged Duck with artichoke , chicory , cherry , potato and a heavenly duck leg terrine and probably my dish of the day.

 

We then opted to have the additional Cheese Course to share which featured a Lyburn Gold , Kentish Blue , Bath Soft along with a malt loaf , carrot & fennel chutney & dried grapes. Our palate was then refreshed with a Gin & Tonic with elderflower , cucumber & dill.

 

Now it was time to finish with a fabulous dessert English Strawberry with goat’s curd , sparkling wine & basil. We ended our lunch with Petit Fours of cashew & miso choux bun as well as hand tempered chocolate with passionfruit. These were brought to us along with a little surprise by Ruth herself which gave us the chance to have a quick chat and personally thank her a for a fantastic lunch.

 

This brought to an end a fantastic lunch and one that I would highly recommend. If you didn’t fancy having a tasting menu then I would certainly recommend looking at the bar menu downstairs which also looked very appetising and by the sound of it a Sunday roast seems to be a good idea as well. This is something we’ll probably try on our next visit which I’m sure won’t be that far away.

 

Thank You Ruth and all the team for a fantastic lunch and look forward to seeing you all again soon

Kim W

17 October 2012  
Food & Drink 4.5
Service 4.5
Atmosphere 4.5
Value 5
Great food, great service and good value for money. Will definitely visit again

Jamie F

15 May 2011  
Food & Drink 4.5
Service 5
Atmosphere 5
Value 4.5
What a lovely place! Visited with friends from USA and they commented that the service was the best they've experienced in London! Food was also very good! The quality of the produce really came through with little mucking about from the chef! My starter of asparagus with breaded poached egg and fennel puree was sublime and main of sea bass on gazpacho really delicious. One of my American friends really wanted the fish and chips from the downstairs pub menu and that wasn't a problem for them at all – it looked amazing and apparently tasted so as well. Desserts were classics – creme brulee, sticky toffee pudding (wow!), chocolate fondant and all superb. Wine list touched pretty much all bases and we were very happy with the quality we got. The pub downstairs was extremely busy and the dining room full all night. The atmosphere was buzzy but fairly relaxed, helped by the great selection of music – jazz from the early 1900's I think. Pub and dining room both look lovely and the ladies were nice too although you have to negotiate the spiral staircase to the pub to get there…

Laura I

30 August 2010  
Food & Drink 4
Service 5
Atmosphere 4.5
Value 4
Visited with a companion recently with completely the wrong idea of what this place is! For some reason I had it in my head it was going to be very plush when in fact it's a thoroughly decent (almost down-to-earth) gastropub with very good food and possibly the best service I've experienced in a pub! In fact, the service we received puts many fine dining restaurants to shame! Good all round wine list, well priced but possibly a bit heavy on the French country wine? I know it goes very well with rustic cooking so maybe it's me being fussy! Don't let this detract from a very good experience though! A very slick operation and one that I am sure will be there for some time!

PAUL D

21 August 2010  
Food & Drink 4.5
Service 5
Atmosphere 5
Value 5
I ate with two friends in the dining room after reading the reviews below and those from Time Out. We all had a lovely evening and The Princess is now very much on our ‘places to visit again list’. The dining room is a well decorated and cosy room with very interesting 'Princess's of old' artwork. The tables and chairs are comfortable with plenty of space for glassware and side plates. The feel of the place was very much ‘polished rustic’. We went on a Tuesday evening and it was full. The pub downstairs was jam packed when we arrived and it had a very bustly atmosphere. Not sure if I'd enjoy eating in that environment but plenty of people were… Up in the dining room the service was warm, friendly and very efficient. The style was quite relaxed but we never wanted for anything the whole evening. The food was every bit as good as the reviews say. We were all very pleased with our choices and there wasn't a duff dish among our choices although I suspect this is the reason why the menu is the length it is – 6 starters, 7 mains and 5 desserts. Good, reasonably priced, wine list and very impressed with their selection of whiskies and brandies. Would definitely recommend.

Stacy H

05 July 2010  
Food & Drink 5
Service 5
Atmosphere 4.5
Value 4.5
Had a lovely evening here recently with a group of four old school friends. We had a nice bottle of Picpoul de Pinet (about £23 if my memory serves me correctly) in the downstairs bar before heading up the dreaded spiral staircase for dinner! The food and service were both second to none and all of us left feeling very satisfied indeed. The decor is very nice and the atmosphere bustling downstairs and a bit more relaxed upstairs. They seem to have removed the table clothes (as viewed in some pictures) and now have old rustic tables instead but the room was charming nonetheless and felt very cosy. Our waitress was charming and helpful and gave good recommendations for both food and wine. Highlights were the ham hock and pea shoot salad, rabbit terrine and carpaccio with horseradish mousse for starters. All very good indeed! For mains the scallops were sensational! Plump and perfectly cooked with just the right amount of caramelisation and served with a pea purree, pea shoots and broad beens. I was very impressed indeed! To finish off the desserts were OMG good! All in all, a very enjoyable evening and five new fans!

Emyr T

06 May 2010  
Food & Drink 3.5
Service 3.5
Atmosphere 3
Value 3
The Princess has established itself as a top dining experience in Shoreditch, combining a gastropub, serving classic pub dishes, in the downstairs bar area, with more of a fine dining experience in the upstairs dining room. Book ahead for the fine dining, or turn up early for the walk in downstairs. The Princess has a lengthy wine list, with many by the glass and carafe options.

Daniel E

25 February 2010  
Food & Drink 4
Service 4.5
Atmosphere 4
Value 4
This is a nice place on the edge of Shoreditch. Serve was very good and the steak I had was done to perfection. Go for dinner, upstairs for fancy and downstairs for more chilled. Then go onto the Hoxton hotel for drinks, they serve till very late!
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020 7729 9270 020 7729 9270

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