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Banging the cucina povera drum in Exmouth Market, Paesan has all the now-familiar accoutrements made famous by the likes of Polpo (think bare brick walls, filament light bulbs and a small-plates
menu), although the array of wall-mounted boars’ heads has to be a first. Drinkers can head downstairs to the low-lit basement bar for vintage cocktails and homemade limoncello, while hungry types
should move on up to the main dining room, where it’s possible to graze happily on antipasti and ‘piccolo’ – little sharing plates, ranging from deliciously creamy courgette and lemon arancini to
rich dollops of burrata with aubergine caponata. Alternatively, go for something bigger – perhaps lamb with comforting fagioli beans, a thin-crust ‘pizza fritta’, or a generous bowl of char-grilled
prawns with creamy horseradish dip. Keen prices and breezy service help to bolster Paesan’s fun-loving vibe.
Exmouth Market continues on its culinary evolution with the arrival of Paesan, a restaurant (and subterranean cocktail bar) that’s part of a growing number of Italian sharing-style restaurants in London. It’s ‘cucina povera’ solidly focuses on using excellence produce, in gutsy, vibrant combinations to a satisfying effect.Half of the menu is dedicated to cured meat, cheese and vegetable antipasti, ‘piccolo’ sharing plates (which aren’t that piccolo) and lusciously adorned four-slice pizzas. These offerings alone can create a varied and tasty dinner for you and friends. The other half of the menu is completed with full-sized meat, fish and pasta dishes, for a more conventional meal if that’s what you’re after...
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