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Square Meal Review of Orwells ?

With its pared-down pubby charm, great rural location & flexible eating options, Orwells is a delight, painstakingly realised by chef/co-proprietor Ryan Simpson as a modern day country restaurant. Prices are reasonable on the brasserie’s defiantly British menu, where starters include local rabbit Scotch egg or home-cured salmon with pickled vegetables, & mains might run from venison & hazelnut burger (with triple-cooked chips) to roasted plaice fillet with nettle risotto, asparagus, crayfish, radish & chive oil. After that, baked Alaska with raspberry yoghurt & tarragon meringue is a must-try dessert. Guests in the dainty, evenings-only Room can pick from more refined dishes such as Earl Grey-smoked duck & confit served with poached & pressed foie gras, celery jelly, tamarind & beetroot, then roast loin & braised shoulder of lamb with sweetbreads, morels, pesto & chickpea beignets.

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