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The ‘bizarre’ decor leaves you in no doubt that this member of Mauro Sanna’s Olivo group is devoted to seafood: an abstract monochrome mural shows fish, boats and gulls, a construction of wriggly
white nets hangs from the ceiling, and the ‘clinical’ white room is illuminated by strange ‘jellyfish’ light fittings. The menu changes with the seasons, but certain items are always available:
‘perfectly balanced’ linguine with crab and chilli, sliced air-cured tuna beautifully presented with green beans and sun-dried tomatoes, and a traditional Sardinian broth with couscous-like fregola
pasta and clams. The fish is ‘outstanding’, but the deafening din can sometimes make it feel like ‘dining on a Heathrow runway’ – no wonder many regulars take refuge on the pavement terrace for a
spot of Belgravia people-watching.
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