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‘Deep pockets required!’ warns a fan of this hybrid gastro-complex from Russian restaurant guru Arkady Novikov – a favourite with Mayfair’s new oligarchs and assorted Euro high rollers. Top marks
go to the Asian-themed room – a ‘beautiful’ but frenetic space complete with a glass-walled kitchen and a ‘market bar’ displaying the day’s catch on ice (pick what you fancy). Despite the odd
complaint about ‘stale’ tuna sashimi and ‘vinegary’ salmon tartare, the kitchen copes well with a ‘greatest hits’ menu of sushi, soups, tempura, salads (crispy Peking duck with green apple),
yuzu-scented black cod with miso, Chinese soya chicken and so on. Otherwise share, like we did, some upmarket dim sum at lunchtime – perhaps mint and pea dumplings, prawn moneybags or
salt-and-pepper frog’s legs. ‘Pretentious’ staff match the clientele’s haughty posturing, but they generally deliver as required. Novikov’s offer extends to an Italian Room serving competent food
in more prosaic surroundings, plus a jam-packed lounge bar downstairs
The restaurant is owned by Arkady Novikov, a Russian millionaire restaurateur with more than 50 restaurants throughout Russia. Novikov is his flagship London restaurant, in fact his first outside Russia. It is located on Berkeley Street in Mayfair, across the road from that pretentious celebrity haunt, Nobu Berkeley. Novikov is split between two restaurants, one serving pan-Asian food, and the other serving Italian food. There is also a lounge area in the basement for those just wanting drinks, plus a smallish bar area that graces the entrance to the venue...
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