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Established in 1983, Mr Kong is a stalwart of late-night London & the Chinatown scene. It’s a Cantonese of the old school, with an exhausting menu, white tablecloths, carpeted floors &
green dining chairs – so why is it acclaimed by so many? The answer lies not only in the charms of the long-serving manager, but also in a ‘chef’s special menu’ that might promise cuttlefish with
garlic sprouts & pungent Malaysian shrimp paste, braised turbot with bitter melon, & deep-fried stuffed pig’s intestine with spicy salt. ‘The sizzling beef is hotter than Clive Owen’,
exhorts a fan, & the wine list holds a few vintage treasures. Mr Kong’s returning customers include not only Soho night owls & Asian corporates, but also Buddhist monks in search of strict
Restaurants in London's Chinatown, indeed in the Chinatowns of most world cities, tend to fall into one of two broad categories. There are those aimed squarely (one might say cynically) at tourists, of the all-you-can-eat buffet and menus-with-pictures variety, and those intended for Chinese diners, where the food is the real deal but gweilo visitors are positively discouraged and any bold enough to cross the threshold receive the frostiest of welcomes.What a delight then to find that Mr Kong on Lisle Street, the comparatively quieter thoroughfare parallel to Chinatown's pulsing main artery of Gerrard Street, falls...
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