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Situated beneath ultra-chic L’Etranger, spin-off Meursault offers a more casual take on Jérome Tauvron’s high-end Franco-Japanese cooking, complete with a lurid art nouveau ceiling and an adjoining
lounge/bar. After an amuse-bouche of basil and salmon squeezed from mini-toothpaste tubes onto blinis, you might share sea-fresh tuna tartare or a trio of high-end mini-burgers. Elsewhere, an
assemblage of pan-fried foie gras, cinnamon and date pudding, yuzu-infused caramelised endive and Lagavulin chocolate ice cream sounds ambitious; in the mouth, this posh purée is an expensive
experiment that is probably not worth repeating. Much better is Alaskan black cod with miso, and the menu also touts tempura and robata grills. Sadly, any hint of tea in our Earl Grey crème brûlée
was lost in a ganache that tasted curiously like Ovaltine. The monumental wine list naturally includes a raft of prestigious Meursaults, and slick staff are eager to please.
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