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Square Meal Review of Meluha ?

Bristol has been long overdue an upmarket Indian to rival London's top-end Asian destinations, and it may just have found that spark in the shape of Meluha. Chef/proprietor Stephen Gomes is known for his inventiveness, humour and genre-bending take on Indian cuisine, so opt for the gourmet tasting menu to get a handle on his flair and use of bold flavours. Starters are presented in a contemporary western style with quirky combinations such as chocolate and orange chicken tikka or prawn wasabi cocktail with lemon foam. The beef tamarina served with a fluffy 'cloud' of candy floss is astounding, while mains occupy more familiar ground; safe bets are butter chicken and ‘railway’ lamb curry, or you can go off-piste with the likes of Thai-influenced duck with lemongrass and coriander. In all, classy fine dining, Indian style.

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