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Jason Atherton’s departure in 2010 marked the end of an era at Maze, even if Gordon Ramsay still holds the keys to this big-money Mayfair playground. Food-wise, it’s no longer at the epicentre of
London’s zeitgeist – although the multi-course tasting-plate format and obvious Asian influences keep it in the frame as a ‘decent’ eatery. There’s a bespoke sushi chef these days, and choosing
from his repertoire of dishes is a good bet: sea bream marinated in dashi and yuzu with katsuo crisps, for example, hit the spot on a recent visit. Otherwise, dip into the full menu for foie gras
and smoked duck with cherries, wet almonds and Sauternes gel, followed by cannon of lamb with Jersey royals, broad beans and mint sauce. The brown-toned interior is all ‘maze-like’ screens and
partitions, complete with views over Grosvenor Square, while service generally meets with approval.
Is it about time that Mr. Gordon Ramsay’s restaurants were put under the microscope again? Ramsay can certainly be credited with elevating food to new heights that were previously unknown in London. But has his loss of his second star at Claridge’s meant he’s lost a bit of his sparkle? Are standards at his one star Maze as good as they were when Jason Atherton was around? That is the main question...
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Old Gordon Ramsay has been getting a lot of stick in the press recently, or at least for the past three years or so. He's one of those celebrity TV personalities you'll either love, or hate - i still haven't made my mind up yet. What i do know from his cookbooks, is that they are surprisingly good, well thought out and informative. It's for that reason i made my way down to Maze.Arriving at the restaurant, it was all a little bit confused at reception, with staff seeming clueless as how to hang a jacket and give it a ticket stub - still i went with it. A walk past the bar, which had a seating area more reminiscent of a bean bag lounge at VUE cinema, i was already wondering, was i really in a Michelin starred restaurant. Once you make your way deep into the heart of the confused dining room it all gets a little better. Smartly dressed staff were welcoming...
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