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Square Meal Review of Le Cassoulet ?

‘Michelin-star food at bistro prices’ says one fan of Malcolm John’s smart French restaurant. Set on an unassuming shopping parade, Le Cassoulet looks inviting with its terracotta walls, plush banquettes & ornate mirrors. Democratic pricing sees the three-course menu set at £30 for dinner, & just £19 at lunchtime. Although duck & pork cassoulet features at both sittings, there’s a refinement to the evening dishes that elevates the cooking of south-west France to a level rarely seen at these prices. A miniature pie of Burgundy snails, ham hock & mushrooms is faultless; perfectly cooked gurnard comes in a bouillabaisse-style sauce with punchy rouille. Both are beautifully presented. To finish, Venezuela chocolate fondant is worth the short wait, revealing a molten centre beneath its rich, airy sponge. Neither should you miss the vins naturels or the great-value bins from the south-west on the mostly French wine list.

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