L-Restaurant & Bar

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Square Meal Review of L-Restaurant & Bar ?

It may have started off by throwing down the gauntlet with some daring, culinary challenges, but this elegantly appointed restaurant & bar seems to have found its natural level – much to the delight & relief of Kensington's more conservative diners. Hot & cold tapas are served in the low-key front bar area, but you're better advised to head through to the airy, conservatory-style dining room for inventive Iberian dishes. The difference is in the detail, & the kitchen is still prepared to try some interesting strokes – Spanish black pudding, pear & Payoyo goats' cheese rolls are served with sauce vierge, while a risotto of baby scallops & sobrasada is topped with manchego crisps. Mains tend to have a more conventional Spanish or Euro accent, as in zarzuela or slow-roast pork belly with fondant potato, braised cabbage & Rioja sauce. The carefully conceived wine list has plenty under £30, with a bias towards France at the top end.

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