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St James's Street may have a reputation for frosty English reserve, but warm-toned L'Oranger brings a little Provençal sunshine to bear. Its bijou terrace is a wondrous haven, while the narrow
dining room does its best to impress with original panelling, architrave and big mirrors. ‘Quite simply fabulous' was one glowing verdict on the food, which is represented by highly worked plates
of roasted scallops and smoked duck breast with truffle mousse and raspberry vinaigrette, ‘magnificent' roast pigeon, or rack of lamb en croûte with dried fruits, aubergine and citrus-tinged confit
tomatoes – flavours of the sunny south executed with classical precision. For dessert, keep it light with lime soufflé, fromage frais and clementine sorbet. ‘It's definitely not cheap', warns one
punter, but opting for the set lunch keeps your accountant sweet. The wine list carries a heavy French accent, with bargains and classics in abundance.
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