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Square Meal Review of L'Abat Jour ?

This ever-dependable old-school Italian, close to Moorgate tube, overlooks the grounds of the Honourable Artillery Company. Polite, black-shirted waiters work the tables, attending to a clutch of regulars who almost look like part of the furniture – although there’s nothing doddery or dusty about the service or the cooking in this pleasing trattoria. The Anglo-Mediterranean food is honest, deftly handled and terrific value, with most mains coming in below £20: try grigliata de carne (a mixed grill of char-grilled chicken, pork beef and Tuscan sausage) or fried fillets of haddock with cannellini beans, black olives, capers and saffron. Kick back with a Campari and orange before tucking into starters of bresaola or grilled sardines on toasted home-baked bread with gremolata. Pastas and stone-baked pizzas also have their say, while desserts are decidedly traditional.

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