Kitchen 264 at The Collection

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Square Meal Review of Kitchen 264 at The Collection ?

The Collection's unshowy, Med-influenced cooking frequently comes up trumps. There's much to like on a menu that runs from fat little squid stuffed with minced lamb and almonds to grilled poussin or chunks of roasted monkfish on linguine spiked with pungent bottarga – although prices for, say, pepper-crusted sirloin steak or poached lobster with chive butter are decidedly OTT. Also, the whole package can seem rather self-conscious, a faux-exclusive trip for Chelsea poseurs – note the fashionably black, warehouse-chic interiors, the hostesses wielding guest lists and the plasma screens, which can whir down mid-meal to show the football. Bouncers are de rigueur, although the waiting staff are all welcoming smiles, warmth and efficiency as they talk up the surprisingly affordable selection of fun cocktails and wines.

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