Imperial City

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Square Meal Review of Imperial City ?

Richly patterned walls and upholstery, soft lighting and jet-black tones lend a certain Stygian elegance to this upmarket, business-friendly pan-Asian restaurant in the vaulted undercroft of the Royal Exchange. It’s an expansive setting for a broadly Chinese menu with influences drawn from across the Orient – from Japan and Korea to the Nonya style of the Straits Settlements. Pick your way through dishes that are generally spot-on, even if they don’t always set the world on fire: mandarin spare ribs with barbecue sauce, chicken satay or teriyaki eel fillet with samphire before sampling Singapore-style lobster with chilli, wok-fried crispy monkfish with ginger and vegetables or stir-fried ostrich fillet with garlic and black pepper. Desserts look to the west for the likes of chocolate fondue or mango and toffee cheesecake, while cosmopolitan drinks run from Far Eastern bottled beers to conventional Old World wines.

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