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Billed as a ‘pleasure-seeking gastrodome’, House of Wolf is a three-storey affair offering two bars and all manner of zany hipster events from vaudeville to literary salons. Pitched up in the
‘attic’, the cosy, good-looking dining room does away with the notion of a permanent ‘named’ chef in favour of monthly guest residencies. Foodie frontier-pushers might sit down to an experimental
dinner dreamed up by artists, a seasonal supper cooked by maestros of the pop-up scene, or some other weird and wonderful offering. On our visit, the food seemed to exist simply to reinforce an
artistic message: cutlery was replaced by an array of pseudo-scientific props, and the dishes on offer – whisky-infused salmon sashimi and tender venison with roasted vegetables – tasted relatively
plain. That said, House of Wolf is fun, clever and a handy conversational ice-breaker.
With London still revelling in 'pop-up' restaurants and short term chef residencies, House of Wolf has arisen trying to strike while the iron is hot, with the promise of experimental dining. Experiments are always a risk, but at House of Wolf they simply relinquish control to the latest upcoming chefs with a series of residencies and pop-ups back to back. Most recently they had in Blanch & Shock to mixed reviews. This time round was a very short 4 day residency from Free Company, a trio of upcoming chefs most notably from the Salt Yard group, already a plus for me having so many times revisted Opera Tavern. I didn't want to miss them this time after hearing good things at their stint in the Endurance...
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Islington’s The House of Wolf describes itself as a ‘multi-functional, multi-sensory pleasure palace, dedicated to the creative pursuits of dining, drinking, art and entertainment.’ What that means in practice is a ground floor Victorian-era styled pub area known as the Music Hall Bar serving superior bar snacks, an experimental cocktail department, located in The Apothecary on the first floor run by cocktail maestro Stephen Quainton and his team, and a fine dining restaurant on the top floor...
More from The Hedonist »
Cocktails, Food and Entertainment at The House of Wolf: A month or so ago I went to the launch party for the House of Wolf in Islington. All was well for the first half hour or so of press preview, then the doors were opened and the place full to the brim. Too crowded to review, I asked to return. And discovered that in November two of my favourite chefs would be upstairs in residence. So, what could be better? Experimental cocktails and food at the House of Wolf cooked by Blanch & Shock (you may remember my review from The Endurance). Well, all was going fine, until we started the evening with a fresh blackberry and absinthe cocktail. It was delicious, very refreshing and slightly herbal. And, a little deadly! But, still able to stand, we then made our way upstairs to the first floor experimental cocktail bar, The Apothocary. Our cocktails looked splendid, mine ‘Over the Pop’ based on a whisky sour but with popping candy and cherries and my dining companion’s Tiki with flambed pineapple to represent a beach. These cocktails ARE experimental. I actually liked my version of whisky sour, the combination of popping candy [...]
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