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Launched by Colin Clydesdale and Carol Wright (of Stravaigin and Ubiquitous Chip fame), this Vietnamese canteen is a riot – a funky hotchpotch of gaudy silken lanterns and bare wooden
furniture, with disembodied parts of Ho Chi Minh-era bikes strewn around the room. Although the chef isn’t from the old country, the food feels authentic and there’s no hint of ready-made shortcuts
– they even produce their own tofu (try their special coriander-crusted version).The menu is a cook’s tour through the native cuisine with fragrant flavours, explosive hits and contrasts in every
mouthful: jellyfish salad with chicken and mango; slow-cooked ox cheek stew with water chestnuts; char-grilled sea bream with caramelised pork belly and pickled cucumber – plus exemplary pho soups,
fritters, rice cakes and more besides. At lunchtime, you can also drop by for a banh-mi baguette to take out. Terrific value, terrific fun.
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