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Steakhouses are suddenly sexy in London, but evergreen Greig’s Grill continues to trade on tradition. This is old Mayfair, where moneyed suits sit on purple velvet, pedigree Pauillac is the tipple
of choice, & the interior is a grand mix of chandeliers & floor-to-ceiling wood panels. The clubby feel is all tongue-in-cheek fun, but the kitchen knows how to deliver well-hung,
accurately cooked British beef at very reasonable prices. Sadly, things are less happy when it comes to the finer points – decidedly average bread, char-grilled duck breast ‘flooded with sugary
liquid’ & a ‘curdled’ crème caramel. Still, the old guard keeps coming back for helpings of prawn cocktail, deep-fried Brie & baked salmon – as well as the much-lauded steaks. Service is
amiable if occasionally confused, & wines are surprisingly easy on the wallet.
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