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Square Meal Review of Fat Olives ?

‘Friendly food, tasty people’ – the Murphys’ clever slogan neatly sums up their charming restaurant housed in a 17th-century fisherman’s cottage hard by the town’s harbour. It’s a pleasingly decorated little place that makes an unassuming backdrop for highly polished, modern food. Imaginative combos have included starters of baked bream with fennel broth, lime & chilli oil, or duck egg, black pudding & serrano ham salad, but the strength of the kitchen is its reliance on local produce, as seen in mains of rabbit pie with roasted loin & grain mustard sauce, or sea bass – plucked from the Solent – with brown shrimp, caper & lemon risotto. Fig & almond terrine with ginger ice cream may follow. The wine list is a judiciously chosen slate.

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