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Square Meal Review of Fairyhill ?

A new chef is at the helm in this smart little country-house hotel, and the result is cooking that’s comforting and precise. Classically elegant throughout, Fairyhill has a menu to match, with top-notch ingredients and traditional techniques to the fore. Kick off with, say, confit chicken, bacon and black pudding terrine with tomato chutney or king prawns with chilli and lime butter, ahead of loin and slow-cooked belly of Gower lamb with pea and mint, garlic mash and rosemary jus or herb-roasted hake with runner beans, cauliflower, herb polenta and sauce vièrge. The commitment to local sourcing extends to desserts such as Gower cottage brownies, baked in the neighbouring village, while homemade creations could include honey cheesecake with blueberries. Be sure to make time for the weighty wine list, which has something for every occasion and pocket.

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