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Square Meal Review of Daphne ?

Only a heartless cynic could resist the homespun charm of this bona fide backstreet taverna, where you wish the darling waiters were your long-lost uncles. Old school to the hilt, Daphne is decorated with colourful trinkets, tiled floors & faded black & white photos of Cyprus. The food, too, is exactly as you’d expect at this kind of gaff. Plates of hoummos, taramasalata, calamares & skordalia (an almond, potato & garlic purée) pave the way for bigger dishes of chicken souvlaki, rich & hearty moussaka oozing with béchamel, or kléftiko (a slow-roast joint of lamb with vegetables). Daily specials include an abundance of fresh fish – opt for the charcoal-grilled swordfish steak if it’s available. Finish with sticky sweet baklava. A small roof terrace beckons on summer nights.

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