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Square Meal Review of Criterion ?

A Piccadilly stunner, this beautiful, historic dining room never fails to wow Londoners and tourists alike with its ‘classic, timeless decor’, baroque-style ceilings, marble columns and luxurious soft furnishings – although the food is well worth a punt, too. ‘Surprisingly unpretentious meals’ might yield Earl Grey tea-smoked salmon and eel with horseradish mousse or juicy poached lobster with watermelon and tomato, followed by squid-ink linguine, perfectly grilled steaks and elegant desserts such as white and dark chocolate torte with kumquats and fruit chips. ‘Exceptionally friendly’ staff ferry plates to and from the white-clothed tables, fastidiously scraping up crumbs after every course, while the wine list offers something for casual day trippers and big spenders alike. For a less pocket-pounding experience, try the Brit-accented set menus, which continue to tempt new customers to this ‘almost-hidden gem’.

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  1. Published : Sunday, 23 March 2014

    Samphire and Salsify :: The Criterion

    Based in the heart of Piccadilly Circus, The Criterion has been around for what feels like forever; it first opened its doors in 1874. It’s one of those old fashioned London “institutions” that I’ve always wanted to try but never got round to, so as my parents and I were in need of a pre-theatre dinner, I thought it would be the perfect chance to give it a go.

    The dining room is undoubtedly impressive; it’s a grand affair with plenty to look at in every nook and cranny...
    More from Samphire and Salsify »

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