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Square Meal Review of Chez Gerard ?

Still a barnstormer for quick working lunches & ‘always packed with suits’, this chain of Parisian-style bistros seems to have dipped of late, with gripes about ‘slow’ service & aggressive pricing, including ‘a cover charge for bread & olives’ & ‘a tiny cheese plate for £9’. That said, the warm, laid-back atmosphere & near-constant buzz are reasons to visit, & the simple food ‘doesn’t let you down’. Despite the much-publicised banning of foie gras, the menu is still about as Gallic as it gets: kick off with snails in garlic butter, move on to salad niçoise, duck confit or beef bourguignon & finish with tarte tatin. Steak, however continues to be its strength & we can’t argue with a pretty good onglet & frite for £12.95.

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