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Cast your eyes over Cheneston’s compact dining room – taking in the cosy, old-school wood panelling, the open fire, the heavy mahogany furniture & the Victorian architecture – & you might
guess the restaurant is a bastion of tradition. The fact that the set menu (£21.50/26.50 for two/three courses) is entitled ‘table d’hôte’ provides further pointers. The cooking is predominantly
British & highly elaborate. A starter of hand-dived Orkney scallops comes with an entire team of ingredients: roast salsify, caramelised chicory, chicory purée, bacon & hazelnuts. Likewise,
a wild-deer main course consists of trompette-crusted loin, venison faggot, toasted walnut risotto, celeriac purée, & – wait for it – chocolate & espresso sauce. Sherry trifle might come as
a relief for afters. It’s all very expensive: £16-19 for a starter, up to £38 for a main & around a tenner for pud. A minuscule private dining room lies just off the main restaurant.
The Milestone Hotel is one of the Red Carnation group of hotels, a collection of fourteen award-winning luxury family owned and run boutique hotels, located in the UK, South Africa, Switzerland and the USA. The group was founded by South African-born Bea Tollman and her husband and has since the mid 1970s established a reputation for timeless décor, exceptional locations, highly personal and genuine guest care, and celebrated cuisine. The Milestone Hotel, located on a prime patch of real estate across the road from Kensington Palace gardens, is a beautifully ornate 19th century red brick building which is consistently rated as London’s most outstanding five star luxury boutique hotel, as well as a string of other awards. Stepping into Chenestons restaurant in the heart of the hotel is like taking a step back into another century. The room is warmly inviting with candlelight twinkling on silverware, dark ornate mahogany furniture, and a huge stone fireplace at one end of the room. The kitchen is in the capable hands of Kim Sjobakk, a Norwegian chef who has been with the hotel since 2011 and previously worked at Gordon Ramsay’s Maze and the Dorchester. There’s a fine choice of wine too, with an extensive wine cellar of more than 400 vintages, and we were lucky to have German head sommelier, Lia Poveda, on hand to select a wine to match each of our courses. Although our menu was a bespoke tasting menu, most of the dishes are also available on the a la carte menu, and those are the prices I have listed...
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