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Close links to Billingsgate fish wholesaler Chamberlain & Thelwell underpin the menu at this versatile Leadenhall restaurant, which is laid out across several levels – providing a space to suit
most moods. The upstairs dining room is for business, a brick-lined basement brasserie keeps it casual and there’s an alfresco terrace out front for people-watching – although the most appealing
tables are on the ground floor, illuminated by huge windows overlooking the market’s Victorian avenues. Start with Armagnac-scented lobster bisque or a modish take on a Cockney classic (tea-smoked
jellied eels with green-apple jelly, celeriac mayonnaise and parsley sauce), before getting back to basics with grilled Dover sole, fish and chips or skate with brown butter. The French-led wine
list includes some classy Chablis at expense-account prices, as well as more affordable Pays d’Oc quaffs.
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