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Eating here is like being in the home of your most effortlessly stylish friend – who just happens to cook great steak and plenty of it. Casa Malevo's proprietors are both Argentinian and are keen
to promote the culinary wonders of their homeland by feeding the inhabitants of Connaught Village with empanadas and more besides. Some readers have been underwhelmed by small starters, but when
the morcilla and chorizo are made in-house and the Argentinian beef is cut to order, something's got to give. If a straight steak (perhaps with decadent foie-gras butter) doesn't appeal, the grill
also produces lamb chops, free-range chicken, sea bass and chimichurri burgers. Puddings take full account of the national fondness for all things sweet and milky, and the all-Argentinian wine list
is nectar for patriots.
This Argentinian steakhouse is located dangerously close to the stain that is Edgware Road, so much so that I find myself lining up a number of contingency options on the short walk there. On entering I am struck by how ordinary the interior of Casa Malevo is; after reading a number of shiny reviews about a gaucho inspired parrillada heaven, I feel slightly cheated. Strangely, the wow room is hidden in the basement and allotted to private dining, dominated by a chunky time-worn table with wine bottles lining the walls.Back upstairs in our less-than-lavish surroundings the tables are squished in tight and I find myself seated with the emergency exit to one side and the coat rack behind me. Now that the scene is set, surely something equally as tasty will follow, and in this regard we are not disappointed...
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