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With three venues dotted around Old Brompton Road, restaurateur Abel Lusa has the market for Spanish food just about wrapped up hereabouts. Cambio de Tercio is reckoned to be the most formal of the
bunch and the kitchen deals in ‘serious, high-quality cooking’, with nods to the best in the business – witness el Bulli’s famous deconstructed chorizo omelette among the signature plates.
Elsewhere, the likes of caramelised foie-gras millefeuille with smoked eel and baked apple, a new take on patatas bravas, or monkfish casserole with griddled razor clams, broad beans and parsley
jus show similarly lofty ambition. Charming Iberian staff hit the right note, while the interior is a joyous mix of flaming red walls, orange ceilings and black paintwork, with concertina doors
opening onto the street. Cambio also boasts a brilliantly eclectic list of Spanish regional wines and sherries.
Cambio De Tercio is named after a bullfighting move, where a matador charges in a new direction to avoid a bull. With the philosophy of serving ‘modern’ Spanish food instead of traditional tapas, it would seem that the restaurant has taken inspiration from its name. This intention of freshness, however, is at odds with some aspects of Cambio De Tercio.Don’t get me wrong, there are some dishes which are genuinely good...
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