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From the crisply ironed tablecloths to the epic cheese ‘chariot’ that gets wheeled out at the end of the meal, Boundary sets the Shoreditch standard for dyed-in-the-wool French dining without tears
and is a ‘refreshing example’ of how it should be done. Francophiles can salivate at the prospect of play-it-straight classics served against a modern backdrop of plush curved banquettes and a
constellation-themed hanging mural, with an open kitchen providing plenty of distraction. Native oysters with chorizo is a winning starter, or you might prefer a fancy plate of seared scallops
paired with salt-cod beignets, grapefruit and fennel, while mains could include perfectly poached beef fillet with short-rib ravioli and wild mushrooms or a slab of pan-fried turbot lifted with
squid, samphire and artichokes. To finish, desserts such as passion-fruit soufflé with orange-marmalade sorbet regularly deliver the goods. Great-value prix-fixe menus, attentive service and an
extensive wine list complete a hugely satisfying package.
When the Champagne list starts at around £60, you know you’re in serious territory, and this eatery is unashamedly classical in orientation, with a fabulous selection of blue-chip French wines. Yes, there’s some wallet-bashing stuff for City workers, but also a lot of careful sourcing from £40-80 for the locals, too. Clear, elegant and accurate, Master Sommelier Christopher Delalonde has done his job well. And the ‘sub-£35’ page is a fine idea.
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