It’s three decades since Sir Terence Conran took over the refurbished Michelin Building and named it after the tyre company’s mascot, Bibendum (aka the Michelin Man), but despite all those years on the clock, the restaurant remains as timeless and enduring as that famous talisman. The spacious art-deco interiors are now the domain of Claude Bosi, whose highly esteemed Mayfair restaurant Hibiscus closed in October 2016 after nine years. The ground level is still the place for seafood and Champagne or coffees and pastries, while the first-floor, soft-blue dining room now has an open kitchen at its centre, focussed on contemporary fine dining. The new menu makes room for both Bibendum and Hibiscus classics, as well as new creations including oyster omelette with caviar and watercress, and Galician beef fillet with smoked eel and beef jam. Rotisserie meats are served from a carving trolley for weekend lunch, while another trolley gets wheeled out when it’s time for dessert, piled with the likes of Paris Brest and trifles. MW Isabelle Legeron is responsible for the wine list, which favours France’s Rhône and Burgundy regions, while Bosi beavers away to cultivate Michelin stars for the kitchen.