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Square Meal Review of Angelus ?

Angelus ‘goes from strength to strength’, declares one reader, impressed by this neighbourhood favourite’s contemporary cuisine and first-rate wine cellar – and we wouldn’t disagree. Smart bistro interiors of brown leather, dark wood and chandeliers give off a ‘lovely, belle époque’ vibe, and the food manages to blend easy Franco/European flavours with full-on luxurious indulgence. The likes of foie-gras crème brûlée with caramelised almonds, or duck breast with braised peas, bacon, lettuce and potatoes are heavy-hitters, although the skilful kitchen also knows how to put a lighter spin on things. After that, white Valrhona chocolate mousse is naughtiness on a plate. Owner Thierry Tomasin is a former chairman sommelier of Britain, so the wine list is a big draw. Readers speak fondly of his ‘idiosyncratic’ style – in fact, the whole package offers ‘French cooking and hospitality at its best’.


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