Spread across the ground floor of the extensively refurbished Four Seasons Hotel, Amaranto has bags of international polish and jet-setting pizzazz. Deep reds, black lacquering and leather-topped tables scream kitsch opulence, while the kitchen delivers a contemporary take on regional Italian cuisine. Antipasti of octopus with salsify and puttanesca sauce or tuna and grilled peaches with quinoa and sweet-and-sour dressing set the tone, while pasta might include green tagliolini with crab, baby spinach and tomato fondue. Mains range from fritto misto and Ligurian shellfish broth to porchetta with apple compote and baby vegetables, while cheeses and desserts stay with the patriotic theme. Best of all is the mighty regional Italian wine list, which offers full access by the glass if you wish. The restaurant sits cheek-by-jowl with several intimate salons, a lounge and a bar.