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Square Meal Review of Alba ?

As it heads towards its 25th anniversary, ever-reliable Alba continues to keep City diners happy with its Piedmont-focused food and wine. Business people appreciate the smart, slick interior with its slate floor and green furniture, but this is no sterile, anonymous eatery – in fact, the food has real personality and a certain homely style. Start with a salad of creamy burrata, pine nuts and spelt or sedanini pasta with clams, baby leeks and fennel, before moving on to lamb shank with potato purée, chestnut and red wine jus or quail with cavalo nero, veal kidney and Jerusalem artichokes. Unsurprisingly, Barolos and Barbarescos feature strongly on the wine list. A good chunk of the City shuts down at weekends, so the Saturday lunch menu is worth a look, as is the popular fixed-price offer (£18.90/22.50 for two/three courses).

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