21 Bateman Street

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Square Meal Review of 21 Bateman Street ?

Set up by a group of friends from the Hellenic old country, this new Greek in Soho bills itself as a ‘meat and veggie grill’ with lots of folksy artefacts, prints of postage stamps, plates and curios adding colour to the clean-lined, functional dining room. Eat in or takeaway from a modest street-food menu built around souvlaki skewers from the robata grill, assorted wraps (lamb with tomato, onion, tzatziki or mint yoghurt, for example), burgers and a handful of daily specials. Sharers and sides of pitta, fries, baked feta and wild boar sausages help to flesh things out, while dessert is a simple offer of fresh Greek yoghurt with a variety of toppings. Drink gutsy Greek wine or a bottle of Fix beer. Note: no bookings, apart from groups of six or more people.

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  1. There are remarkably few Greek restaurants in London, especially when compared to the proliferation of Turkish restaurants. 21 Bateman Street, which follows the annoying trend of naming itself after its address, is not only one of the few new Greek restaurants in London but is the only that I know of that focusses on just souvlaki. This dish of grilled skewered meat is very similar to Turkish kebabs with, as far as I can tell, only relatively small differences in seasoning and the fat content of the meat. An exception to this trend is the presence of pork which, unsurprisingly, is absent from your typical Turkish grill.

    Before diving into the souvlaki with the help of the Flame Haired Squelchie and the Randy Northerner, I started off with the wild boar sausage. While mildly coarse, it was ultimately rather anonymous and forgettable despite the chunky bits of fat flecked throughout...
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