Soho’s pokey townhouses weren’t built to house flash restaurants; they’re better suited to tiny, new-wave indie eateries such as the “splendid” 10 Greek Street. It’s a job to get in (book at lunch, queue at night) and it’s a squeeze to get out again (there’s a sliver of space between tables) but, in all other respects, eating here is a happy trip. Daily blackboard menus evoke the strong colours and bright flavours of the Med, with Brit themes in support. Our starter of ox heart came unfussily presented with beetroot, watercress and horseradish, while Waldorf salad made a rare appearance, punched up with Roquefort. Otherwise, expect contemporary European riffs such as hake with spiced chickpeas, cuttlefish and preserved lemon, backed by a terrific list of sub-£35 wines.