As we reported exclusively this summer, Vivek Singh’s groundbreaking modern Indian closed in July for a refurbishment. As well as a revamped interior, new feasting and seasonal dishes were promised for the Westminster big hitter – Vivek, you successfully seized our full attention. Reopened today (bookings from Monday 14 September), we went along last night for a more reliable (and tasty) kind of Indian summer.
Regulars have been lobbying The Cinnamon Club for the past six months: “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”, they chant. But Vivek Singh (above) has never been one to stop pushing the boundaries or rest on his laurels and sure enough, the unveiling of his iconic Westminster gastrodome is a stunning exercise in subtle, yet clever, evolution.
The palette of neutral and largely masculine tones has been washed away in favour of bolder duck-egg blues and calming greys. Nothing too audacious, but comforting and exciting nonetheless. It may seem obvious, but in an effort to play to its strength the Old Westminster Library book collection (previously consigned to the gallery) is now part of the main dining room, adding drama and context in equal measure. Curvy, covetable banquettes have rejuvenated the back area, making this hitherto undesirable spot a fabulous alternative to the main stage.
The beautiful private dining room and hiddengem mezzanine have been given the full makeover treatment too. But it’s a rich canvas to paint on and the grand entrance, high ceilings and parquet floors all continue to strike a special occasion note, which crackles when the dining room is full.
London’s upscale Indian restaurants are something the foodie firmament rightly treasures, and The Cinnamon Club is arguably right at the top of the pile. As ever, the menu’s star turns are game, with milk-fed Herdwick lamb one of the choices among the new feasting platters. Fresh from the Lake District, a slow-braised shoulder joint is served with saffron rice, pomegranate pilau, garlicky burhani raita and coriander chutney. For a heightened sense of occasion (not to mention anticipation), Singh – in collaboration with head chef Rakesh Ravindran Nair – has introduced a trolley for tableside carving: carnivore heaven.
While it’s perfectly possible to keep the bill down, this is not a place to sit on your wallet and dishes of exquisite sorcery rarely disappoint. Carpaccio of home-cured Shetland salmon is spiced to order and served tableside (below), while a Kerala seafood bisque arrives with a crab bonne bouche smartly resting on the bowl’s lid and is smooth and deeply comforting.
Chargrilled breast of Anjou squab pigeon delivers a masterstroke of flavour and texture, piqued with pumpkin chutney and crunchy peanuts. Roast saddle of Romney Marsh lamb (below) with corn sauce arrives pink but utterly tender, its grassy, herby, nutty quality perfectly complimented by a silky Burgundy from the list. Our dark chocolate tart with a spiced fruit sorbet delivered an inventive finale.
An old Westminster library may seem an eccentric formula for a flamboyant, contemporary, upscale Indian restaurant, but it is one that has worked for the past 15 years, and with this makeover, we have no doubt it will continue to shine all the way through winter and beyond, capturing the imagination of its eclectic gallery of regulars and newcomers.
The Cinnamon Club is now open, with bookings available Monday 14 September onwards. We look forward to hearing your take on the refurbishment and as ever, you can submit a #SMDinerReview by logging in here.
Check out all of London’s latest restaurant openings here.
This article was published 10 September 2015