Kebabs look set to continue being the food of the moment (the Black Axe Mangal queue starts here) with the opening of aptly named Le Bab in Soho’s Kingly Court, due to soft launch at the end of December. But we’re not talking about the type that comes in a peach polystyrene box, the kind you guzzle while waiting for the night bus after a few too many. Oh no. With an ex-Le Gavroche team at the helm, and a seasonal menu focusing on provenance, Le Bab makes a departure from dingy kebab houses to serve the proper Turkish stuff, along with a strong, Eastern European-leaning wine list.
Le Bab co-founders Stephen Tozer and Ed Brunet are rather obsessed with wood-fired cooking: Tozer gathered inspiration on his travels around the world, while Brunet was classically trained at Michel Roux Junior's legendary Le Gavroche and brings with him one of the restaurant's former sous chefs, Manuel Canales Garcés, who will be head chef here. He’ll be joined by Le Gavroche's former chef de partie, Angus Bell.
The food
Choose from either sharing or individual kebabs, all made using seasonal British ingredients, bar the spices.
On the menu for winter, diners can expect:
- • Roe deer shish with damson and dried isot pepper jam, cavolo nero kimchi, artichoke crisps and game mayo
- • Free-range chicken shawarma with turban squash hummus, chicken crackling, winter pickles, Le Bab’s toum (Levantine garlic sauce) and biber chilli
- • BBQ paneer kebab with beetroot and coconut purée, crispy onions, rainbow chard stems and curry mayo
- • Rare-breed pig’s head (will a certain someone be paying a visit?) with crackling, kohlrabi and carrot slaw, red onion and pomegranate molasses (to share)
The drink
Le Bab’s unconventional wine list features bottles ranging from Czech natural wines to top French cru, with good value at its heart, alongside a selection of craft beers from The London Beer Factory.
Cocktail aficionados can get stuck into:
- • Ottoman Bandito, a heady mix of agave blanco Tequila, dry vermouth, cardamom, pomegranate juice, orgeat and burnt fresh rosemary
- • Roman Holiday, a combination of London Dry Gin, Ed’s homemade elderflower cordial, Lillet rose and fresh mint
- • Le Bab Old Fashioned, a twist on the classic featuring rye whiskey, carob syrup and house bitters
Interior
Set designer Angus Buchanan is combining the Middle East and the Med: French panelling, patterned tiles and a contemporary concrete bar will feature, as well as an open-plan kitchen, exposed fire pit and communal dining table. The aim is to foster a sense of community – much like when queuing for a kebab at 3am and everyone else in it becomes your best friend (except with a far better end result).
Le Bab launches in January and will be open 7 days a week, from 12-3.30pm and 6.00pm-12.00am at 2 Floor, Kingly Court, W1B 5PW. Follow them on Twitter and Instagram @EatLeBab.
This article was published 21 October 2015