Part of an established Middle Eastern brand (with outlets in Kuwait and Bahrain), Oliver Maki launched in Soho on 1 February and immediately created a stir with its innovative take on sushi. There are bangs and whistles in abundance here: think Wagyu meatball-topped sushi rolls; plastic jewellery boxes filled with sashimi and smoke; tableside blow-torch displays; and desserts served in glass domes. Naturally, we visited the joint faster than you say ‘homemade wasabi’. Read on for an interview with founder Oliver Zeitoun, followed by our restaurant review. Is Oliver Maki all style, all substance, or an equal dollop of both skilfully rolled into one?
What led you to focus on Japanese cuisine?
I have always been an avid admirer of Japanese culture and cuisine. Everything is refined and delicate, particularly the food, which is made with care and love. Diners are appreciated by the entire restaurant team, while chefs are very respectful of sustainability.
What have you learned from opening restaurants in the Middle East?
Being well travelled, diners in the Middle East are very much in touch with their taste buds. In a comparatively small market, there’s an abundance of dining choices, which forces us to continue being unique.
How will you make Oliver Maki competitive in Soho, based on what you know about the West End?
Diners in this part of town want something that is both affordable and refined, and we’re going to work hard to provide that. We obviously care about the business side of things, but we place a massive weight on the holistic experience. We guarantee dishes and ingredients that are second to none – expect to feel and taste the difference when you compare us to direct competitors.
What would be your pick from the London cocktail menu and why?
Our cocktail list will be constantly evolving, but the Yuzu Daiquiri is fantastic. I’m a huge yuzu fan; the cocktail is simple (blanco rum, lime juice, sugar syrup and yuzu marmalade) but very elegant.
Who or what are your biggest cooking influences?
My biggest food influence in general is Japanese cuisine, but chefs who influence me include Ferran Adrià and Heston Blumenthal.
What’s next for you? Anything to tell?
Next is definitely further expansion in the UK, Europe, and North America. Who knows?, maybe another London outpost too! One of the ideas I have in mind is a Mediterranean concept that presents simple yet refined dishes.
Read our verdict of Oliver Maki below
Just landed on a prime corner site of Soho’s Dean Street, this contemporary fusion Japanese restaurant is part of the Maki chain – its first branch outside the Middle East. On the street, the first thing you’ll notice is a digital screen flashing snapshots of what lies within. It’s certainly an enticing prospect: luxury ingredients, including Wagyu beef and covetable chutoro tuna, as well as spectacular, theatrical dishes. Pre-eminent among the latter is ‘Sushi Jewels’ (below), a selection of 12 pieces of sushi served in a clear plastic jewellery box filled with smoke.
Yet despite these fun flourishes, the mood within the two-storey, minimalist black and grey restaurant is one of hushed solemnity, probably best suited to dating. The large menu is clearly presented on tablets but you’ll need the well-drilled staff to assist, as only some of the dishes include descriptions – adding pictures would be a huge improvement.
In the kitchen, however, the attention to detail can’t be faulted, thanks to ex-Nobu head sushi chef Louis Kenji Huang. Standout dishes on our visit included succulent and light filo shrimp tempura, served in a shot glass with dipping sauce. The aforementioned sushi jewels were excellent too, making delicious use of smoke and first-rate raw materials. Surprisingly, though, we found the signature ‘Oliver Maki’ (named after founder Oliver Zeitoun) to be disappointing: a ring of individual pieces of sushi, each of which failed to hit us with a lasting flavour. The Wagyu ‘burger maki’ also received a mixed response, combining hot beef with cold sushi in one strange bite – instead, we’d recommend the Wagyu fried rice: a tastier (and cheaper) prospect. Neither should you miss the beautiful, tree-inspired green tea tiramisu for dessert, arriving within a glass dome complete with green dustings and chocolate pebbles.
Expect cocktails to be sweet but classy, the wine European (well-chosen yet pricey), and the service courteous and efficient – if not entirely relaxed. Ambition is clearly high here, and the restaurant works hard to create a memorable experience. Nevertheless, Oliver Maki needs to amplify the fun and the flavours if it’s to become more than simply a great spot for sushi lovers and flashy, expensive dates.
Find out more and book a table at Oliver Maki here
This article was published 17 February 2016