Located on the former site of Foxtrot Oscar in Chelsea, Gordon Ramsay's third Maze Grill follows the successful formula established by Maze Grill Mayfair, serving up signature rare-breed steak alongside fish and poultry hot off the grill. Modelled on its sibling Maze Grill Park Walk, exposed brick walls paired with parquet floors, plump olive green banquettes and wooden panelling make for a chic yet comfortably casual setting that's already popular with locals. Bag the window table for a spot of people watching or head to one of the cosy basement booths if you're with friends. Light starters, small plates and sushi are pitched perfectly ahead of the meatier grilled mains. Our seasonal asparagus was topped with an oozing golden-yolked egg and lifted by a tangy purple mustard dressing, though sushi stole the show. Translucent slices of scallop, dotted with jewel-like salmon caviar and fresh shavings of frozen yuzu tasted even better than it looked. To follow, full-flavoured rare breed sirloin and Herdwick lamb chops were cooked perfectly to order and evidenced careful sourcing; you can also get pricier US and Japanese beef alongside the native breeds. Be prepared to lose your will power when it comes to side orders: crisp chunky onion rings with BBQ dip, buttermilk mash and addictive mac ‘n’ cheese make comfort food an art form. Well-kept cheese and fancy puds offer more temptation; while a perfectly pitched wine list is packed with decent bottles: do ask the friendly staff for their recommendations.
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The article was published 29 May 2015