A breath of fresh air for Paddington, this quirky Korean, Japanese and Taiwanese project (hence the name) combines manga sci-fi decor, sky-high views and even loftier prices. Is it worth the dosh? Read on to find out.
Kojawan is the work of chefs Omar Romero (formerly of Rhodes Twenty Four) and Bjorn van der Horst (The Greenhouse) and resides on floor 23 of the Hilton Metropole. The dining room is astonishing: expect videos of flirty manga characters, spacecraft-inspired surfaces and random sculptures. The irreverent mood works, because great service hasn’t been forgotten. Begin at the bar with snacks including cricket bombs (deep-fried balls stuffed with insects) and predominantly sweet cocktails, before selecting raw, charcoal-baked or ‘fire stove’ dishes from the main menu.
Our hit-and-miss dinner included superbly rich, meaty ‘beef tea’ broth, pairing perfectly with punchy Wagyu tartare. Pork and spring onion ‘egg cake’ was a riot of ingredients (topped with ibérico ham) that fell flat and flabby in the mouth, whereas beef cheek with chilli and ginger revealed carefully cooked meat vibrant with flavour. White chocolate-stuffed pancake (resembling a taco) made a delicious finale, and the wine list offers ample choice.
Fun and panoramic drama awaits at Kojawan, but high prices mean the food needs to improve to make this a must-visit.
Find out more and book a table at Kojawan here
This article was published 26 April 2016