A grand art deco café? We’re definitely on board for that. The new German Gymnasium restaurant in King’s Cross has had a gestation period as lengthy as its lofty dimensions, but was it worth the wait? Find out here as we deliver our verdict.
D&D has breathed life into London’s first purpose-built gymnasium – said to have hosted events at the inaugural 1866 games of the Olympian Association – to produce its new grand art deco café, the German Gymnasium. Staying true to the building’s history, the interior features paintings of gymnasts and climbing hooks, along with orb lanterns, gleaming marble floors and two entrance-making staircases; fresh flowers and candles soften the overall feel.
German-born head chef Bjoern Wassmuth has created a Central European brasserie-style menu: informal breakfast and lunchtime dining on the ground floor (including a dedicated sausage section); and a mezzanine offering classics such as steak tartare or oysters, together with the likes of Tafelspitz (slow-cooked beef rump with rösti, horseradish and apple). Main course might be fleshy white scallops skewered alongside meaty, blood-red sausage and soothed by butternut squash purée (above); or a fabulous foot-long veal schnitzel, cut by sharp lingonberry jelly.
The Meister bar boasts an impressive cocktail list of classics and newbies, and the wine takes diners on a viticultural journey down the Danube (including Hungarian vintages). Pud has to be spiced apple strudel, though the cake counter holds ample allure. Our only gripe is the moderately high cost (£40 for two courses), but exceptional staff and a location close to King’s Cross station look set to entice punters aplenty.
For more on the German Gymnasium, check out our recent SquareReel News video, filmed at the restaurant last week and including an interview with chef Bjoern Wassmuth. Alongside a hearty helping of food porn, of course.
This article was published 27 November 2015