No reservation? No problem

Restaurants with a no-bookings policy divide opinion at Square Meal: some of us hate to queue in tense anticipation, unsure of whether our dinner will be worth the wait, while some of us embrace the spontaneity that this dining model affords our social lives. If you’re stuck for somewhere to eat out this weekend, or want to take a chance on something new, here’s our pick of the capital’s 10 best restaurants taking no reservations.

Barrafina, Soho (pictured, top left)
This cosy and convivial tapas bar, serving authentic, top-quality Spanish dishes, is run by the Hart brothers, whose other successes include Fino and Quo Vadis. Queues form nightly from 7pm for classic dishes such as tortilla española (with its obligatory runny centre), croquetas, and grilled razor clams.

Canton Arms, south-west London
Located halfway between Vauxhall and Stockwell, this shabby-chic gastropub operates on a first-come, first-served basis. The menu is full of hearty, seasonal dishes (served family-style) and interesting cuts, while the bar serves a good selection of wines and real ales, as well as seriously satisfying bar snacks.

Charles Lamb, Islington
A tiny Islington institution whose small selection of daily dishes is well worth the wait. It’s usually jam-packed with locals, so just finding a perch – either in the bar area or the dining room – is your cue to order. While you’re waiting, try a warm glass of mulled cider with homemade bar snacks.

Dishoom, Covent Garden (pictured, above right)
With its marble-topped tables and kitsch vintage Bollywood decor, Dishoom is India repackaged for style-savvy Londoners. Small plates to share, from grilled toast and house chai to spicy lamb chops, are served from breakfast through to dinner in the lively dining room; at night, try the cocktails.

Franco Manca, south-west London
Consistently featured in lists of the capital’s stand-out pizzerias, this glorified market stall in Brixton’s covered market is certainly not luxurious, but the sourdough pizza bases and organic toppings, low prices, and inimitable style of owner Giuseppe Macoli, more than make up for the lack of razzmatazz.

Morito, City West
Standing shoulder-to-shoulder with big sister Moro, this friendly and laid-back tapas bar serves Middle Eastern, north African and Spanish dishes, as well as a stellar line-up of ice-cold sherries. To avoid drooling over other people’s food, the staff will take your number and call you when a table becomes free.

Opera Tavern, Covent Garden (pictured, above left)
The ground floor of this Spanish/Italian hybrid – from the team who brought Dehesa and Salt Yard to the capital – takes no reservations, leaving theatre-goers and in-the-know Londoners to enjoy its excellent charcuterie, cheeses and critically-rated signature dishes.

Polpo, Soho (pictured, right)
This Venetian-style tapas bar is packed nightly, with most tables welcoming three sittings during the course of the evening (although once you get a seat, you can stay there for as long as you like). If you don’t want to queue for dinner, pop downstairs for an aperitif in the Campari bar while you wait, or try booking for lunch instead.

The Providores, Marylebone
The bustling ground-floor tapas bar of Peter Gordon’s fusion mecca welcomes those calling in on spec – and there are many of them. Sit on high stools at shared tables, or hold out for a more intimate booth, sipping great wine from fishbowl-sized glasses while you wait.

Sophie’s Steakhouse, Fulham and Covent Garden
The original Sophie’s, in Fulham, and its Covent Garden counterpart, have stuck firmly and successfully to their no-bookings mantra since they opened. The Covent Garden restaurant is the larger (and hipper) of the two venues; consequently, the wait is rarely longer than the time it takes to drink a cocktail at the bar.