.
24 July 2014

Restaurants & Bars

Find and book great restaurants

Find a Restaurant

Register here for your Square Meal Guides

 
Poll

What do you think of diners smoking e-cigarettes in restaurants?

 

Blog Reviews from the grumbling gourmet

(menu)

One man, in an unfashionable part of London, eats out more than he should, and talks about it (occasionally)


  1. I once took my small, Northern mother for a sushi blowout at Jenny's in Manhattan, keen to introduce her to my new favourite thing. She flashed me a helpless pleading look as the enormous plate of mixed sashimi and nigiri landed and I hastily ordered her a side salad with (cooked) tuna before nailing the lot myself. If you were a sushi newcomer, Kikuchi probably wouldn't the most accessible entry into the world of high-grade fish. Even for people who know their nigiri from their nitsume we had some problems with the ordering. The staff might be bright and friendly but given the extremely high ratio of Japanese customers, they assume that you know exactly what you're doing here... 

  2. Published : Wednesday, 29th August 2012

    Brasserie Zédel | Zedel abides...

    When I was a young West Ender, a posh night out ended up in the familiar confines of Joe Allen. Slightly dirtier ones usually found you gurning round a four top in Balans or playing pinball up the rickety staircase of Bar Italia. You'd gone very wrong if you wound up in Shuttleworths... I was a little young for the Atlantic, that louche, debauched bacchanal under the old Regent Palace Hotel. It's to that space that we head tonight, now home to the newly launched Brasserie Zedel.It's not an expensive joint. And that's an understatement. Three courses for three people, coffee, wine and service clocked in at £90, phenomenal value given the quality...

  3. Published : Sunday, 19th August 2012

    La Bodega Negra | La Bodega Negra - Mexi-can! Aug 2012

    On a sultry Soho night, the office Joes and Olympic trippers trooping down Old Compton hardly notice Kate Moss extinguish her cigarette and stalk back into the sex shop. Is it that regular round here to see a supermodel (retired) in a sex shop? Given the in crowd's current predilection for hip Mexican La Bodega Negra, hidden behind the porny facade, it's probably not that unusual dahling.Following Kate down the staircase to this modish modern Mexican is a crowd definitely more Chelsea than Soho, beautiful blonde embassy types squired by ex Bullingdon Clubbers. This isn't entirely a bad thing. They bray less when they're out of their comfort zone and here just provide a slightly well-to-do wallpaper...

  4. Published : Saturday, 18th August 2012

    Antico | Antico on Bermondsey Street - Aug 2012

    Thank God for Gregg Wallace's Kitchen. If it wasn't for the failing, empty echoing temple to celebrity 'chef'dom under the Bermondsey Square Hotel you might be forgiven for thinking that all you needed for restaurant success was an SE1 postcode. Bermondsey Street has, with the aforementioned exception, become a real hub for local foodies in recent years. One can only hope that the minions soon to be besuitedly beetling away in the nearby Shard don't notice, it's busy enough already round here.On a night where I needed to prove my restaurant picking credentials to a discerning guest, the street didn't let me down... 

  5. They've settled down at St Pancras station, all of the builders have moved next door to repair years of damage to the original monstrous carbuncle King's Cross. Railway restaurants are one of those things we don't seem to be able to get right in this country. They're too often poorly operated by franchises with low to no service standards, just an excuse to rip off occasional visitors...      

  6. A semi local of mine for a number of years has had it's most dramatic reinvention, from ugly local duckling to fully fledged gastro pub.The owners, Capital Pub Co, are no newcomers to the market and (although owned by boozy behemoth Greene King) have form in taking down at heel sites and creating the kind of interesting, smart spaces that upwardly mobile locals don't mind spending their bucks in...