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17 April 2014

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Blog Reviews from In Oxford, Will Eat

(menu)


  1. Published : Sunday, 9th March 2014

    Fallowfields | Fallowfields, near Abingdon

    According to its own website, this is 'one of the best restaurants in Oxfordshire'. Normally I'd be a little suspicious of such claims - and I can't pretend to have tried all its competitors - but Fallowfields proved to be such an ideal location for a special occasion Sunday lunch that I think it must compare favourably even with a certain French chef's flagship establishment. This isn't a proper country house hotel - it's on the edge of the perfectly pleasant but not exactly chocolate-box village of Southmoor with Kingston Bagpuize - although it is surrounded by gardens, where some of the produce served in the restaurant is grown, and paddocks with cattle and sheep. On an unseasonably warm March day it provided a very agreeable setting for lunch, which began with canapés (I loved the smoked trout-filled tiny ice cream cones) and then an amuse of seared scallop with apple...

  2. Published : Thursday, 11th July 2013

    The Perch | The Perch, Binsey Lane

    I'd lived in Oxford for at least five years before I made it to the Perch (before that, I eschewed it for the overpriced and over-popular Trout up in Wolvercote). Even then, it took a few more years for me to realise that you can reach this pub from Port Meadow via a winding and wooded path, and it wasn't until today that I actually ate there. hink it was probably worth the wait. We were indeed there at an ideal time: it was warm and sunny enough to sit in the paved area overlooking the charming garden, which is given a slightly otherworldly air by the huge willow trees and the wind chimes that ring gently and unobtrusively, but we just missed the lunchtime rush (and I imagine the restaurant would be far busier on a sunny weekend)...

  3. Published : Saturday, 11th May 2013

    Bill's Restaurant Oxford | Bill's

    It was the desserts that did it. After a few weeks of walking past and being tempted by a menu that included lemon meringue pie cheesecake, warm mini doughnuts and marmalade and brown bread ice cream, I had to try Bill's. ill's in Oxford is the latest branch of a chain that began on the south coast, in Lewes, with a café that was also a greengrocer's: not much more than a decade on, branches seem to be springing up everywhere. The shop element has been retained, although the fruit and vegetables have become gourmet jams, sweets, beers and other goods that are stacked on tables and shelves throughout the restaurant. Bill's have taken over the Northgate Hall on St Michael's Street, and clearly plenty of cash has been spent on converting this high-ceilinged old building into a shabbily chic, warehouse-style space...

  4. Published : Sunday, 7th October 2012

    The Pig | [Out of Oxford] The Pig, Brockenhurst

    The Pig's website has a whole page devoted to the coverage it has received from publications like the Times, GQ and Vogue. This Hampshire hotel and restaurant is clearly becoming a very popular and fashionable spot (with prices to match) and certainly doesn't need me to alert more people to its existence. But the meal I had there was so impressive that I feel bound to commemorate it...

  5. Published : Tuesday, 15th May 2012

    Moya | Moya, St Clements

    So this week I tried something a little different, the 'wholesome Slovak home cooking' of Moya. Moya's website claims that the restaurant is proving that the Central European food is much more than the Cold War-esque stereotype of 'boiled cabbage and stodge'. At first I wasn't quite sure this was going to be the case - a glance at the menu reveals hearty Mitteleuropean ingredients like rye bread, sauerkraut, goulash and so on - but soon it was clear their boast is true. The cooking at Moya is creative and delicious, treating these potentially heavy flavours with a light touch.