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Restaurants with literary references in their names didn’t fare well this weekend. Matthew Norman gave a withering account of a meal at L’Etranger (pictured) filled with ennui and existentialist despair, while Jay Rayner lambasted Opus in Birmingham for being ‘try-hard’ and ‘unmemorable’. In other news, Hugo Rifkind attacked Michel Roux Jr At The Landau for not practising what he preaches on TV. Square Meal’s bite-sized round-up of what the papers said keeps you up-to-date with London’s hits and misses.
London’s food critics have been chasing each other around the capital’s restaurants again. This month, Time Out’s Guy Dimond echoes our opinion on the Fox & Grapes’ dessert, while The Observer’s Jay Rayner ponders the flimsy puddings at Chabrot, after raving about the rest of the menu. Meanwhile, Tracey MacLeod, in The Independent on Sunday, reveals to Ottolenghi’s fans that Nopi (pictured) is no ‘second coming’.
More restaurant critics are beginning to break free of the confines of the M25, and generally, they like what they find. John Lanchester, writing in The Guardian, finds an ‘insanely great gastropub’ in The Sportsman, while the scallops at The Harrow at Little Bedwyn (pictured) get The Independent’s John Walsh all emotional. However, The Sunday Times' London-loving AA Gill leaves Norfolk’s Rose & Crown predictably underwhelmed.