Review of the restaurant reviews — February 2011

Review of the reviews: February 2011

Were other critics’ opinions on recent London restaurant openings in sync with the Square Meal taste barometer? This month, The Times’ Giles Coren finds one dessert at Dinner ‘soaked in angel's spit and spiked with the sugar of unicorn's horn’, Metro’s Marina O’Loughlin shrugs her shoulders at Brawn (pictured), Time Out rates Opera Tavern, AA Gill admonishes Les Deux Salons in The Sunday Times, and The Observer’s Jay Rayner decrees North Road as close as one can get to Noma in the UK.