Set smack beside the small cobbled quayside & old cottages overlooking the harbour, this 17th-century building comes with a surprisingly modish interior – the dining room’s navy blue and neutral tones enlivened by comfortable chairs and stiff white napery. The setting suits the restaurant’s confident, contemporary cooking which puts the emphasis on a simple, healthy, flavour-based repertoire, and its innovative menus are defined by seasonal ingredients, precise flavours & flawless combinations, with the occasional nod to Scandinavia – owner-chef Gary Pearce did a stint at Noma in Denmark as well as Oaxen Krog in Sweden. As befits the coastal setting, fish plays its part – think halibut, turbot or seared tuna loin – but you’re just as likely to find the likes of new season lamb, braised beef with barbecued cep or Welsh wagyu sirloin, all with gorgeously presented and tasty accompaniments. These might be book-ended with seared Orkney scallops to start and desserts that you would never find at home. Simple but stylish rooms provide a further reason to visit.