Indie-minded Islingtonians are well served when it comes to quirky cocktail bars, but those who covet carefully staged designer pads on City Road may prefer the latest extension of Jamie Oliver’s aspirational mega brand. Let’s see if it stacks up. Shiny, sleek, low-lit, modernity? Check. A statement chunky island bar? Check. Postmodern retro design with so-now neon signs? Check. Groovy-looking staff? Check. Created in conjunction with drinks industry guru Simon Gifford, the menu offers laudable spritzes, bellinis, digestivi, Amaretto sours, negronis and sorbetto (Grey Goose vodka, lemon sorbet and Prosecco), while traditional Venetian-style aperitivi are offered free from 5-7pm on weekdays (other bars please note). There’s also a wide range of vino italiano to go with snacks such as crab arancini, fried zucchini and game faggots on crostini with gremolata. Check. As for a discernible soul – pass.